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"“The Junction has slid into the role of neighbourhood gastropub like an old shoe – not that there’s anything beaten-up about it – but without any of the complacency that affects some of its competitors. Its three spaces (big wooden tables around the front bar, a spacious conservatory, and a leafy terrace for summer) make it ideal for long, leisurely lunches.
Welcoming staff never seem overrun or flustered. Menus change frequently, with a nice eye to seasonality, and are not over-long but still offer an attractive choice of inventive, consistently enjoyable dishes. On our last visit, cold roast chicken with parma ham, capers, croutons and an aioli dressing was a bright, impressively fresh summer salad, with a beguiling smokey flavour in the chicken.
Classic dishes are creatively handled too: we had a fine, generous bowl of moules mariniere, and beer-battered coley with mushy peas was a great – even light – version of fish and chips. The wine list is very well priced and user-friendly, and this CAMRA North London pub of the Year (2008) takes good care of its beer range, with regularly changing cask ales. Deuchar’s IPA and Addlestone’s cider are fixtures on the bar, while independent Cornish breweries (St. Austell, Sharp’s, Skinner’s, Wooden Hand) are particularly welcome guests.
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